This kumquat lamb tagine isn’t traditional, and requires a bit of forethought, but it’s honestly one of the best braised lamb dishes I’ve ever tasted. The briny, spicy braised lamb is offset by the sweet, tangy kumquat sauce and the meat is meltingly tender while still retaining its shape, thanks to the curing.
One of the things I love about participating in collaborative cooking events such as Forage Feast this past weekend is that it gives me a chance to bounce my ideas of others, while learning new techniques from the many brilliant minds that participate.
At this particular event, I picked up several techniques (including the use of ziplock bags to make ice cream), but the one that really stuck with me was the process of spice curing meat for a few days before braising it. This was one of Stephane’s many contributions to the meal, and as a course of braised pork with sauteed ramps, morels and pickled ramps, it was my favourite.
Excited to apply this spice curing technique with a different mix of flavours, I rummaged through the freezer looking for a suitable cut of meat. Wagyu beef would have been a waste… pork chops, too lean… pork cheek might have worked, but what I was really looking for was a vacuum sealed pack of lamb breast at the very bottom of the freezer. At about $2 a pound, it’s one of the cheapest cuts, and yet with its high fat content and flavourful meat, it’s perfect for slow roasting or braising in a dish such as this.
The salt in the rub removes some of the water from the meat giving it a pleasantly firm texture, even after braising for a few hours. When the meat is nearly tender, it’s removed and added to a mixture of caramelized onions, kumquats, honey and some braising liquid to finish. As the sauce reduces, it forms a sweet glaze that coats everything, giving the dish a salty/sweet contrast similar to a honey glazed ham.
I served this on a bed of cous cous, but it would be good on rice, quinoa or other grain/pasta of your choice.
Units
Ingredients
for spice rub
- 2 cinnamon whole sticks
- 1 ½ teaspoons coriander seed whole
- ½ teaspoon cumin seed whole
- ¼ teaspoon fennel seed whole
- ¼ teaspoon allspice
- 8 cloves whole
- 3 pods cardamom green
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- ¼ cups kosher salt (use less if using regular table salt)
- 3 pounds lamb breast
for braising
- water
- ½ onion large roughly chopped
- 1 carrot large roughly chopped
- 1 celery large stalk roughly chopped
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 2 ginger " piece of sliced
for tagine
- 1 onion large sliced thin
- ½ lbs kumquat seeds cut in removed half ,
- lamb braised breasts
- ½ cups honey
- 2 teaspoons cinnamon ground
- 1 teaspoon coriander ground
- ¼ teaspoon cumin ground
- ⅛ teaspoon cloves ground
Instructions
- Put the cinnamon, coriander, cumin, fennel, all spice, cloves and cardamom in a small pan and toast until fragrant, moving constantly with a swirling motion to prevent them from burning. Put the toasted spices in a blender with the salt and pepper and grind. Pour the mixture over the lamb breasts and rub to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 48 hours.
- When the lamb is done curing, rinse off all the extra spices and salt, then add them to a heavy bottomed pot along with the onion, carrot, celery, cinnamon stick and ginger. Cover with water then bring to a boil. Skim off any brown foam and fat that accumulates. Cover and turn down the heat to low. Cook until the ribs are almost tender (about 1 1/2 to 2 hours), skimming off any fat periodically.
- Remove the ribs from the liquid and strain the broth into a bowl, discarding the solids. Wash out the pot and return to medium heat with a splash of oil. Saute the onions and kumquats until the onions are tender and just starting to brown. Add the rest of the ingredients for the tagine and simmer uncovered until the liquid is mostly gone.
- Garnish with mint or cilantro and serve with cous cous or rice.
Y says
Oh this sounds really fantastic. I rarely have enough foresight to spice cure meat before cooking it, but I think I should make the exception this time. Love the sound of the whole sweet/sour thing going on.
manggy says
Oh man, you guys keep giving me reasons to regret having to go home so early! >:( Ahrrr (salivating)
manggy says
Oh man, you guys keep giving me reasons to regret having to go home so early! >:( Ahrrr (salivating)
Claudia (cook eat FRET) says
if this dish ever met me, it would totally want me to eat it
wanna bet?
Claudia (cook eat FRET) says
if this dish ever met me, it would totally want me to eat it
wanna bet?
Jeff says
Very curious about the ziploc bags to use ice cream. Granted I have an ice cream maker but always cool to learn a new way to do something.
Spice curing is a great way and I use it a lot when meat curing (drool..bacon). Although very jealous that you only pay 2/lb for lamb breast. It is over 8 here.
Great flavors and very nicely done.
Jeff says
Very curious about the ziploc bags to use ice cream. Granted I have an ice cream maker but always cool to learn a new way to do something.
Spice curing is a great way and I use it a lot when meat curing (drool..bacon). Although very jealous that you only pay 2/lb for lamb breast. It is over 8 here.
Great flavors and very nicely done.
Sam says
I love the spice curing idea, I’m sure that makes a huge difference to the flavour.
Lamb tagine is one of my all time favourite dishes, yours looks fantastic. I love the way the kumquats add colour, I’m sure they’re a perfect flavour match too.
Sam says
I love the spice curing idea, I’m sure that makes a huge difference to the flavour.
Lamb tagine is one of my all time favourite dishes, yours looks fantastic. I love the way the kumquats add colour, I’m sure they’re a perfect flavour match too.
yemek tarifleri says
I love to have recipes like this on hand when my grandsons come to visit. Summer will be here before I know it.
yemek tarifleri says
I love to have recipes like this on hand when my grandsons come to visit. Summer will be here before I know it.
Diana says
This Moroccan dish makes me think of preserved lemons. I wonder if I can preserve kumquats the same way, with some coriander seeds and other spices. Can’t wait to try.
Diana says
This Moroccan dish makes me think of preserved lemons. I wonder if I can preserve kumquats the same way, with some coriander seeds and other spices. Can’t wait to try.
yemek tarifleri says
very very nice thank you..
yemek tarifleri says
very very nice thank you..