In Japan, the seasons play a central role in determining the flavors and colors of the food. While greenhouses and modern transportation networks allow “seasonal” produce to be had all year round, there's an irresistible draw to the fleeting seasonality of ingredients. That's why there's still a great emphasis placed on the seasons.
Matsutake mushrooms are the embodiment of this fixation on seasonality with a primary season lasting just a few short weeks during fall. They have a bouncy, almost crunchy texture when cooked, and exude a clean earthy aroma reminiscent of cedar.
Like porcini's and truffles, Matsutake mushrooms are difficult to cultivate, which means the ones you buy in the store where most likely foraged by hand by someone. Combined with their relative rarity and high demand and you have yourself one pricey fungus. Just one mushroom can fetch several hundred dollars in Japan and boxes can go for thousands of dollars.
Luckily for those of us in the North America, they're pretty abundant in the Pacific Northwest and because they're relatively unknown there isn't a ton of consumer demand. I've seen them at farmers markets and upscale grocers for as little as $15 per pound, comparable to other foraged mushrooms.
While we don't really think of rice as being new or old in the States, Shinmai (新米), or "new rice" is another hallmark of fall in Japan. Because fresh rice has a higher water content, it has a better texture and flavor than rice that's been sitting on a shelf for a year.
Matsutake gohan (松茸ご飯) or "pine mushroom rice" combines these two seasonal delicacies into a uniquely fragrant rice dish that exemplifies the essence of Japanese cuisine. It’s simplicity belies the depth of complex flavours that come together in this humble bowl of rice, and its presence on menus heralds the coming of fall.
I like to cook the rice in konbu dashi because it boosts the level of umami in the dish without getting in the way of the mushrooms. This allows the Matsutakes to take center stage in this dish showcasing their unique texture and flavor.
Like a solo performance without a backing track, matsutake rice is made synergistically better with the addition of some mitsuba and sudachi zest to help accent the bold flavor of the mushroom. Mitsuba, which literally means "3 leaves" is an herb that looks a bit like giant cilantro, but it's flavor profile is quite different with a fresh woody flavor that's somewhere between carrot tops and celery. Sudachi, is a small green citrus that's available in fall with a flavor profile that's like a cross between green mandarins and grapefruit.
Both can be a little tough to find in the US, but they should be available in large Japanese grocery stores. If you can't find them, you can certainly make matsutake gohan without them and you could try substituting other green citrus zest for the sudachi.
📖 Recipe
Units
Ingredients
- 130 grams Matsutake mushrooms
- 320 grams Japanese short grain rice (2 cooker cups)
- 1 ½ cups dashi konbu
- 1 teaspoon soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon sake
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 5 sprigs mitsuba (chopped)
- 1 sudachi (optional)
Instructions
- Thoroughly clean the dirt and sand off of the mushrooms using a damp paper towel. If you find the dirt particularly stubborn, you can use a knife to scrape away a layer of mushroom. But avoid washing the mushroom as this will wash away some of the flavor.
- Put the rice in a strainer and wash until the water runs almost clear. Drain the rice thoroughly and then put it in a heavy bottomed pot (or a rice cooker pot).
- Shred the matsutake by scoring the stem and pulling the mushrooms apart into segments.
- If you are using a rice cooker, add the soy sauce, sake and salt and pour the konbu dashi in until the water level rises to just under the 2 cup line.
- Add the Matsutake mushrooms and cook according to your rice cooker directions.
- If you are cooking this on the stove, put the rice in a heavy bottomed pot with a lid and add the konbu dashi, soy sauce, sake and salt.
- Let the rice rest for 1 hour. While this isn't necessary it will improve the texture of the rice.
- Bring the rice to a boil over high heat and then cover with a lid and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Set the timer for 15 minutes.
- Without opening the lid, turn the heat off and let the rice steam for another 10 minutes.
- When the rice is done stir in the mitsuba and sudachi zest and serve hot sprinkled with a little finishing salt such as fleur de sel.
Carolyn Jung says
I enjoyed a seared Matsutake dish at Coi in San Francisco recently. It was divine except it was only like two slices of mushroom. How I wish it had been more! It was sooooo fragrant and lovely.
kyoko says
I LOVE matsutake! It has such a delicious aroma... I used to try to hog the matsutake in the matsutake gohan since it was a "special occasion" dish!
ila says
yummy! matsutake is easily my favorite(st) mushroom in the whole world. but my baachan always said, "kaori matsutake, aji shimeji (matsutake for aroma, shimeji for flavor)"!
ila says
yummy! matsutake is easily my favorite(st) mushroom in the whole world. but my baachan always said, "kaori matsutake, aji shimeji (matsutake for aroma, shimeji for flavor)"!', '0
kechiko says
Great recipe - I'm going to try this tomorrow in my takikomi! I saw matsutake at the market recently and wondered how I might cook them at home...
Thanks for posting this!
katiek says
wouldn't it be great to go to oregon with all the other matsutake hunters for a forage? I've been wanting to do that this season.
I found a number of mushroom grades (3 of 5) at my japanese market, all with varying price. I am left . You say that the less open the better? ok, I'll head your advice. off to the store.
katiek says
wouldn't it be great to go to oregon with all the other matsutake hunters for a forage? I've been wanting to do that this season.
I found a number of mushroom grades (3 of 5) at my japanese market, all with varying price. I am left . You say that the less open the better? ok, I'll head your advice. off to the store.', '0
Sschuerhoff says
I'm sorry, this might sound like a stupid question, but do you cook the rice before incorporating it into this recipe?
Marc Matsumoto says
Nope it goes in uncooked, just wash and drain the rice first.
Anna Jane Mcguire says
My question is about the kombu dashi. Is this something that I make, like a soup stock, by boiling dried kelp? Or do I buy it in a powder form? My partner and I collected and froze dozens of matsutakes this fall. And, we live on the Pacific coast where we are starting to learn about cooking with sea vegetables. So I am really excited about discovering the traditional way of making this dish, starting with the kombu dashi. Any suggestions?
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks for the note Anna, and great question! Kombu dashi is made by soaking
a specific kind of kelp (dashi kombu) in water overnight. The liquid takes
on the flavor of the kelp and you can then use the rehydrated kelp for other
things such as tsukudani (kelp simmered in sweet soy sauce). You can also
buy powdered kombu dashi which can be reconstituted in water like bouillon
to make kombu dashi. The problem with a lot of these powders is that they
often contain MSG, so if you do go that route, please read the label
carefully to make sure it doesn't have any undesirable additives.
Thomas Abraham says
Do you think I could make this in a rice cooker?
Marc Matsumoto says
Absolutely!, just wash the rice, add all the liquid seasonings, then top it
off up to the cup level line with water (if necessary), then add the solids
(like mushrooms) at the end.
Kathy says
A simple recipe for a delicious rice dish! What would be the proportions for cooking 3 Japanese cups in a rice cooker?
Kathy says
I bought fresh matsutake from an Asian fellow named Henry in Chemult, OR, on Highway 97. I think early October is the season. I thought the prices were good. It ranged from $4/lb to $10/lb.