One of the things I love about Seoul is that there is street food to be found in almost any corner of the city at almost any hour. Pojangmacha or “covered wagons” are typically unlicensed restaurants that spring up in back alleys and empty lots. I once went to one that you entered quite literally from a hole in a wall, behind which was a vast city of street vendors, covered in tarps with plastic stools and tables.
While street vendor sanitization can be questionable (they don’t have running water afterall), they do seem to make an effort to be clean, covering their plates in disposable plastic bags which they toss out after you’re done. Besides, everything is typically fried or boiled and they’re crimson with bacteria fighting chili peppers(capsaicin has antibacterial properties). If that’s not enough to convince you, these places also dispense bottles of 48 proof Soju to wash it all down with. Oh, and did I mention the food is delicious?
Some neighborhoods have specialties, but most have basics like, kimbap (rice rolled in nori), odeng (korean oden), and various anju (bar snacks). Then of course there is the ubiquitous Tteokbokki. At its simplest it’s a snack consisting of garae tteok (Korean rice cakes similar to mochi), fishcake and large scallions that have been cooked in chili paste and odeng broth, but some places add eggs, veggies and even noodles, making it a more complete meal.
Tteokbokki was originally a stir-fried dish consisting of meat, veggies and garae tteok seasoned with soy sauce, but over the past half century an interesting thing happened. A clever vendor started offering it seasoned with spicy Gochujang and odeng, a fishcake dish of Japanese origin that’s another popular pojangmacha offering. The resulting dish, with thick chewy tteok covered in the red hot, slightly sweet sauce was a run-away hit and soon everyone was making it.
For my version, I tried to recreate the modern classic as faithfully as I could. L, who is always quick to point out that my renditions of Korean food “taste Japanese”, said that it tastes just like her favourite stall in Seoul and that it made her homesick (I later caught her listening to k-pop). I can’t think think of any higher praise:-)
Ingredients
- 1 cup oden broth (along with any leftover fishcake)
- 1 cup water
- 2 tablespoons gochujang (see note below)
- 1 tablespoon gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
- 1 large clove garlic minced
- 1/2 carrot julienned
- 1 Daepa sliced at an angle (see note below)
- 25 garae tteok (see note below)
- 1 brick of instant ramyeon noodles (optional)
Steps
- Soak the tteok in warm water for about an hour then drain.
- In a large flat bottomed pan or skillet whisk the broth, water, gochujang, pepper, honey, sesame oil and garlic together. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Cook for an additional 7-10 minutes or until the tteok are soft and the broth has reduced and thickened slightly.
- Bring the whole pan to the table so everyone can pick out the bits they like best. You can also optionally cook this at the table on a table top burner.
Notes:
Colorful food means flavorful foods. This looks like it’s brimming with spicy goodness. And you said soju!!! Gotta love that.
OMG, this dish look so delicious. I love spicy food, and I am going to like this one too.
Cheers,
Elra
Colorful food means flavorful foods. This looks like it’s brimming with spicy goodness. And you said soju!!! Gotta love that.
I love spicy hotpots like this! Very comforting =)
OMG, this dish look so delicious. I love spicy food, and I am going to like this one too.
Cheers,
Elra
This post reminds I should buy a rub of Gochujang, I think it’s use could transcend into my cooking.
I had some Kalbi on the weekend and I saw a dude beside me scarfing down a stewy-soup like this..the smell was awesome!
I know so little about Korean food, lucky you’re here. How on earth did you manage to take a picture of a ragù and make it look sexy, that’s beyond me. I refuse to put it down to the magic lightroom 🙂
I love spicy hotpots like this! Very comforting =)
Hi Marc!
Spicy food always sparks your soul and sometimes your mouth but utterly worth! I don’t know if I can find Gochujang here will see if it’s available!
All the best!
Gera
Beautiful pictures. It looks so spicy, which I love.
This post reminds I should buy a rub of Gochujang, I think it’s use could transcend into my cooking.
I had some Kalbi on the weekend and I saw a dude beside me scarfing down a stewy-soup like this..the smell was awesome!
I’ve never had Tteokbokki – looks delicious and the picture is gorgeous!
I know so little about Korean food, lucky you’re here. How on earth did you manage to take a picture of a ragù and make it look sexy, that’s beyond me. I refuse to put it down to the magic lightroom 🙂
This looks so amazingly savory, spicy, and addicting. Perfect food on a cold night. That’s what I love about Korean food — it’s rustic comfort food in a bowl.
Hot and spicy – my favourite kind of food!
The one quibble I have with living in North America is the lack of street food/things on a stick/food in a bag. The most popular hot dog stand in the Vancouver downtown core is called “JapaDog”, run by a Japanese couple. They sell hot dogs (obviously), with new twists – nori, teriyaki and mayo on beef is one version, and grated daikon and green onions on weisswurst is another.
Hi Marc!
Spicy food always sparks your soul and sometimes your mouth but utterly worth! I don’t know if I can find Gochujang here will see if it’s available!
All the best!
Gera
I love spicy food and I agree I think if you poured this over a couple of poached eggs. You would have the most delicious breakfast.
That stew looks good and flavorful! I’m sure I’d like this delicious dish…
Cheers,
Rosa
Beautiful pictures. It looks so spicy, which I love.
I love Korean food! So spicy and tasty. I always order stir-fried rice cakes with kochujang, but never had the stew before. Sounds delicious. About your question, In Malaysia, a lot of families seem to have their own ‘secret recipe’ of chili made out of dried shrimps, most Chinese refer it as hae bee hiam (chili shrimp floss). While I just call them belacan chili, maybe because of the strong dried shrimp taste. Belacan is actually shrimp paste which is widely used in Malay cooking. They normally come in blocks and you can get them from oriental supermarkets. We normally… Read more »
Ooooh, love the color, love the spices, and love the hard-boiled egg. I have never tried this dish though but I love a similar stew with crab. Yum!
I’ve never had Tteokbokki – looks delicious and the picture is gorgeous!
This looks so amazingly savory, spicy, and addicting. Perfect food on a cold night. That’s what I love about Korean food — it’s rustic comfort food in a bowl.
Hot and spicy – my favourite kind of food!
The one quibble I have with living in North America is the lack of street food/things on a stick/food in a bag. The most popular hot dog stand in the Vancouver downtown core is called “JapaDog”, run by a Japanese couple. They sell hot dogs (obviously), with new twists – nori, teriyaki and mayo on beef is one version, and grated daikon and green onions on weisswurst is another.
I love spicy food and I agree I think if you poured this over a couple of poached eggs. You would have the most delicious breakfast.
That stew looks good and flavorful! I’m sure I’d like this delicious dish…
Cheers,
Rosa
I love Korean food! So spicy and tasty. I always order stir-fried rice cakes with kochujang, but never had the stew before. Sounds delicious. About your question, In Malaysia, a lot of families seem to have their own ‘secret recipe’ of chili made out of dried shrimps, most Chinese refer it as hae bee hiam (chili shrimp floss). While I just call them belacan chili, maybe because of the strong dried shrimp taste. Belacan is actually shrimp paste which is widely used in Malay cooking. They normally come in blocks and you can get them from oriental supermarkets. We normally… Read more »
I love that you absolutely don’t hold back with the ingredients 😉 No wonder it tastes so authentic! Plus, you won’t need to kill any germs with alcohol, heh heh 🙂
Ooooh, love the color, love the spices, and love the hard-boiled egg. I have never tried this dish though but I love a similar stew with crab. Yum!
I was in Seoul for a few days a couple of years ago – loved the food I had there and loved the proliferation of street food vendors. Happy memories!
I love that you absolutely don’t hold back with the ingredients 😉 No wonder it tastes so authentic! Plus, you won’t need to kill any germs with alcohol, heh heh 🙂
I was in Seoul for a few days a couple of years ago – loved the food I had there and loved the proliferation of street food vendors. Happy memories!
I wish I had some of this right now. I’m feeling a little under the weather and I have the feeling this would kick those little cold germs right out of me! Once again – great photos!
I’ve been trying to find the Tokyo “giant” scallions, and here you are using them nonchalantly in your tteokbokki.
This reminds me of the spicy tofu and squid stew that I love so much. It’s a good time to whip some soon tofu, I think. Ooh, I still have some of the nian gao left over in my freezer, too (they’re thinner, but thick enough). Hmm…thanks for the brainstorm. 🙂
I wish I had some of this right now. I’m feeling a little under the weather and I have the feeling this would kick those little cold germs right out of me! Once again – great photos!
I’ve been trying to find the Tokyo “giant” scallions, and here you are using them nonchalantly in your tteokbokki.
This reminds me of the spicy tofu and squid stew that I love so much. It’s a good time to whip some soon tofu, I think. Ooh, I still have some of the nian gao left over in my freezer, too (they’re thinner, but thick enough). Hmm…thanks for the brainstorm. 🙂
i so want to go to seoul and not sleep, and also have a wooden leg (or maybe just gain an eating disorder?) and just EAT EAT EAT. korean food is one of the cuisines i’ve fallen in love with since moving to new york 10 years ago and i can’t imagine it not in my life. this looks gorgeous.
i so want to go to seoul and not sleep, and also have a wooden leg (or maybe just gain an eating disorder?) and just EAT EAT EAT. korean food is one of the cuisines i’ve fallen in love with since moving to new york 10 years ago and i can’t imagine it not in my life. this looks gorgeous.
Greek-Korean sounds like a fantastic combo:-)
My newest secret weapon is a 60W compact florescent bulb that puts out 2600 lumens. It turns night into day:-)
That sounds awesome next time I’m in Vancouver, I’ll definitely have to check it out.
I just ate this tonight for the first time. I really liked it!
I just ate this tonight for the first time. I really liked it!
I’ll try this sometimes!!!
I'll try this sometimes!!!
I agree! I discovered it about a year ago, and I’m hooked!
Can you make it with kimchee chigae?
It won’t be tteokbokki, but I’m sure it would be delicious:-)
Is there a way to make this dish without fish, I am allergic but really eager to try it?
Thanks!
Hi Jessica, this is one of those dishes where the fish stock is part of the core of the dish. Perhaps try a different dish like kimchi jjigae http://norecipes.com/blog/kimchi-jigae-recipe-kimchi-soup/ ?