Tonkatsu

July 27, 2009 · 95 comments

Tonkatsu - Japanese pork cutlet

Tonkatsu (豚カツ) is a cutlet of pork, breaded and deep fried until crisp and golden brown. While it’s become a ubiquitous cafeteria staple in Japan, there are many restaurants that specialize in tonkatsu and related dishes.

Maybe I’m just a total geek, but I’ve always been fascinated with tracing the origins of a dish. The journey of food can be epic and it often finds itself quite far from where it started. For Tonkatsu, it’s not entirely clear where the journey started, but most fried foods in Japan can trace their lineage to the 18th century, when the Potuguese introduced a dish, now known as Tempura to Japan.

Tonkatsu - pork cutlet dredged in flour

Tonkatsu has a crispy panko crust that seals in all the juices of the pork, which makes for a moist tender cutlet that’s almost reminiscent of an Austrian Wiener Schnitzel. The name Tonkatsu yields another clue as to its ancestry. Ton, means pork in Japanese, and katsu is an abbreviation of the English word “cutlet” (pronounced ka-tsu-reh-toh in Japanese). This suggests the dish could be a result of the American influence during the mid to late 19th century, which also happens to be around the time Tonkatsu first started showing up on menus in Tokyo.

Whatever its origins, tonkatsu’s popularity has spread all over Asia with regional variations, such as in Korea, where it’s known as donkkase (돈까스).

While Tonkatsu is typically served with a sweet brown sauce, my favourite way of having it is blanketed with Japanese curry. There’s something wonderfully satisfying about biting into a crisp golden piece of pork while savouring the sweet, spicy curry sauce encircling it.

Tenderizing pork for Tonkatsu

Since Tonkatsu is a simple dish that only has a few ingredients, the quality of the ingredients matters. In this case it’s crucial that you use a high quality piece of pork, otherwise you may end up with a tough leathery chew toy that you’ll end up feeding to your dog. I like to start out with a 1″ thick boneless center-cut pork chop (preferably of the Berkshire variety). Since this is a little on the thick side for deep frying, I give it a good whacking with a chefs knife, which tenderizes the meat while thinning it out.

The leftovers are great in sandwiches (with tomatoes and some shredded cabbage), and they also make great Katsudon (Tonkatsu with onions and eggs over rice).

Tonkatsu (Japanese Pork Cutlet)

4 center cut pork chops (1″ thick)
all-purpose flour for dredging
salt and pepper to taste
1 egg beaten
1 C panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
oil for frying

1/4 head of cabbage shredded on a mandoline (optional)
Tonkatsu sauce for serving (Worcestershire sauce can be substituted)

Shred the cabbage with a mandoline and soak in a bowl of ice cold water for at least an hour. This helps get the cabbage nice and crisp while muting some of the “cabbage smell”.

Prepare the pork by removing any extra fat or tough silverskin from the sides of the cutlet. Use a chef’s knife to tenderize the cutlets in a crosshatch pattern by using a drumming motion across the surface, then turning the meat 90 degrees and repeating. Do this to both sides of each cutlet until they are 3/4″ thick.

Salt and pepper both sides of each cutlet then dredge them in flour, making sure to get an even coat on the sides. The flour combined with the egg in the next step helps the panko adhere to the meat.

Get two shallow bowls and beat an egg in one, and add the panko to the other. Add 3/4″ of oil into a heavy bottomed pot and heat over medium heat.

Coat a cutlet in egg then transfer to the bowl with the panko. Shake the bowl to evenly coat the cutlet, then press on the cutlet to get a nice thick coating of panko. Flip and press on the other side then repeat with the rest of the cutlets.

Once the oil is at 340 degrees F, gently lower the tonkatsu into the oil, being mindful not to scrape too much panko off, while being careful not to deep fry your hand. Once the the cutlets are golden brown on one side, carefully flip them over and brown the other side. Continue cooking until the pork reaches 137 degrees F at its thickest part. Transfer to a paper towel lined wire rack and let it rest of about 5 minutes.

Letting the meat rest allows the internal temperature to continue to rise to around 145 F while allowing the proteins to relax, reabsorbing some of the juices so they don’t run all over your plate.

I like to serve my tonkatsu whole with steak knives, but you can cut them before plating if you prefer. Drain the cabbage and and serve alongside the tonkatsu with some tonkatsu sauce and rice.

  • http://3hungrytummies.blogspot.com/ 3hungrytummies

    hey love your blog, such inspiration!!
    i did make tonkatsu with curry sauce last night.
    http://3hungrytummies.blogspot.com/2009/10/curry-ton-katsu.html

  • http://3hungrytummies.blogspot.com 3hungrytummies

    hey love your blog, such inspiration!!
    i did make tonkatsu with curry sauce last night.
    http://3hungrytummies.blogspot.com/2009/10/curry-ton-katsu.html

  • Jan Hobbs

    Tonkatsu was always my favorite part of a wonderful multi-course meal they serve at Fujiya’s in San Antonio. I wish I had their recipe, I truly still crave the dish after not having had it in 28 years!

  • Jan Hobbs

    Tonkatsu was always my favorite part of a wonderful multi-course meal they serve at Fujiya’s in San Antonio. I wish I had their recipe, I truly still crave the dish after not having had it in 28 years!

  • http://hideyourarms.com/ Andy (Hide Your Arms)

    Great post, I got some pork out of the freezer this morning planning to make tonkatsu, then realised I had no recipe and yours is the best I've come across.

  • http://globetrotterdiaries.com/ Valerie

    I never knew tempura has its origins in Portugal but I've always wondered where the fried foods came from as it seems most Japanese food is almost devoid of oil. Great post! Your tonkatsu looks delicious… I'll have mine with gohan please!

  • http://www.tastesofhome.blogspot.com Tastes of Home (Jen)

    I must be geekish too as I love finding out origins of dishes..so fascinating! Yummy looking tonkatsu!

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  • Mizerello

    I love your site! I’ve been using your Tonkatsu recipe for months now but to be honest hadn’t taken the time to visit through the rest of your site. Wow! I will definitely be back and often. Your photos are wonderful and your recipes are interesting and easy to follow. For others who haven’t tried your Tonkatsu recipe…it’s the best I’ve found and tastes exactly like the Tonkatsu I used to eat at my favorite restaurant in Tokyo.

  • Amittieross

    I did a great job of not doing this right =( but I wont give up and try again. I had it to hot and it burned the outside but left the inside raw. I burn everything (pancakes, rice, noodles) so it was my fault maybe next time or maybe I just fail at cooking

    • http://norecipes.com Marc Matsumoto

      Did you use a thermometer to check the temperature of the oil? If so,
      try turning the heat down a bit after you add the pork. Also, make
      sure you are using a heavy pan/pot to deep fry in (thin/light ones
      conduct heat unevenly). I hope that helps!

      On Wednesday, April 13, 2011, Disqus

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  • Suewilson

    I decided to try making tonkatsu for my son and daughter-in-law using free-range pork available locally here (n N. Ireland) and found your excellent recipe, which was a terrifc help. However, I was concerned about the deep frying aspect – partly because I don’t have a deep-frying pan, and partly because I thought I should try to keep the calorific content down as much as possible! So I followed your recipe until the frying art, but then browned the outsides in a tiny amount of oil, and then baked it in a foil-covered tin for about 20 min. The result was judged by my two guests as excellent! The meat was very soft and tender and fully cooked. We ate it with hoisin sauce, japanese rice, leek and egg plant. Probably not very authentic, but very delicious! Many thanks.

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  • Rosslori6

    While living in Okinawa the tonkatsu I had was served on a bed of sticky rice with a hard fried egg. Oh so good!

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  • Anonymous

    After watching episode 20 of a Korean variety show ‘Heroes’, I’ve become interested in this dish.

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  • Dimwit1

    i have a japanese girlfriend who will be coming here to the united states sometime next year to be with me. she just told me of tonkatsu this evening as she is prepairing it for her supper tonight and had to go out to buy the sauce just now.she says i can make this dish myself now,but i am sure that mine will never compair to hers :)

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  • Andrea

    In a visit to Tokyo last year, we ate at a restaurant called Katsukura in Takashimaya Times Square near Shinjuku Station.  On our table, roasted seasame seeds sat with a motar and pestle, as well as three vessels of sauces.  A waiter showed us how to freshly grind the sesame seeds and mix them with the sauces to accompany our meal. Our perfectly cooked katsu came with shredded cabbage served and a perfectly balanced citrus dressing.  And there was an option eat facing the open kitchen!  Eating katsu here in the states will never compare to that wonderful dinner, but your recipe brought me back there!  Thank you!

    • onepaperkid

      You went to a “tourist” retaurant. If you had tonkatsu in a great little tonkatsu joint (or at home), the recipe in the article approximates how the Japanese would normally eat tonkatsu. Citrus dressing on the cabbage?? Normally, the Japanese would simply use some of the tonkatsu sauce (Bulldog is good) on the cabbage. But, you are right about the HUGE difference between “american” tonkatsu and Japanese tonkatsu. No comparison.

      • http://norecipes.com Marc Matsumoto

        What made you conclude that this is a “tourist” restaurant? Because they serve a citrus dressing with the cabbage? Since when is innovation a crime? If that’s the case, then you probably shouldn’t be eating tonkatsu at all, since it didn’t exist in Japan before the West came. For that matter you should also probably avoid tempura (portugal), ramen (china), gyoza (china), castella (portugal), yakiniku (korea), curry (India via the UK), and about half the fish you eat in your local sushi restaurant (since they’re not a native species to Japan).

  • Karen

    Thanks for your recipe! I like tonkatsu and have introduced it to my (Irish) husband, who also likes it a lot. We agree… while the “traditional” tonkatsu sauce is good, we *love* it with the Japanese curry sauce. Often times we will serve it with both sauces so that we/guests can choose which is their favorite since the flavor is so different. (Also we like to alternate between sauces as we eat.)   Thanks again!  :)

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  • http://www.facebook.com/david.casado.986 David Casado

    Que rico

  • Sodamoeba

    This is the best thing I’ve cooked yet. I finally found all the ingredients for dashi at a huge international store in my hometown, and when I came back to college I was so happy to be able to cook up this recipe. All of my roommates loved it, too, which is kind of the best part.

  • Bonitamiel

    What panko brand do you recommend?

    • http://norecipes.com Marc Matsumoto

      I don’t really have a particular brand that I buy, but look for one with bigger pieces that look more like flakes than crumbs, and it should be white.

  • onepaperkid

    A correction in the pronunciation of “cutlet” in Japanese: When abbreviated to カツ (katsu) in Japanese, the second syllable “tsu” is fully pronounced. When the whole word “cutlet” is used (カツレト= ka tsu re to), the “tsu” becomes a double “t” (a sort of glottal stop) and the word is pronounced katt-re-to (eliding the “su” of “tsu”). Secondly you do not use “pork chops” to make tonkatsu. The pork used is a boneless filet of pork loin (thickness approx 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Regular American “pork chops” (even center cut) make lousy tonkatsu (probably why tonkatsu is not more popular here). Buy only the “good” stuff (never use cheap meat), otherwise you end up with a chewy tonkatsu. DO NOT OVERCOOK. It is better to undercook a little and let it rest. Best to pre-cut the tonkatsu before serving, at a slight angle. If you do not pre-cut, the tonkatsu should be tender enough to cut with a fork or bitten off if picked up with chopsticks. ALWAYS use a Tonkatsu sauce (Worcestershire sauce is a poor substitute – the two sauces are similar, NOT the same). Rice should be Japanese rice, soft and a little “sticky.” The cabbage should be shredded. Forgive me for kibitzing but having lived in Japan for fifteen years and am married to a Japanese, I tend to be very particular about tonkatsu (especially in the US, since the average pork eater in the US buys so-so pork to use). Do not expect great results the first couple of times you make tonkatsu. What pork you choose to use, the way you coat it, the temperature of the oil and how long you cook it all are variables you need to practice until you get it right.

    • http://norecipes.com Marc Matsumoto

      Thanks for your comment. About the pronunciation, I’ve consulted with a few friends and they all agree that the proper katakana is カツレツ so we were both mistaken on that, but on the pronunciation, the ツ is definitely said aloud. Perhaps the area of Japan you live in has a regional accent that changes the pronunciation? Regarding your second point about using pork chops. I was born (and currently live in Japan), so I think I come from a point of some authority on this subject when I say that we have both ヒレカツ and ロスカツ here in Japan. The American pork rib chop (minus the bone) is the equivalent cut to a Japanese ロス (roast) cut, which I personally prefer for tonkatsu because it has more fat in it and keeps the meat moist. Whether you prefer the fatty ロス or the leaner ヒレ in Japan, the reason I suggest people use the ロス cut in the US is because US pork is MUCH leaner than Japanese pork (the loin has less fat that chicken breast meat). If you were to use an American pork loin, you’d end up with something akin to wet cardboard. As for the quality of meat, I suggested people use Berkshire pork because it’s the same breed as Japanese 黒豚 (kurobuta). Having lived in Japan for 15 years, you may have forgotten that in the US, you can’t run to the nearest コンビニ and pick up a bottle of tonkatsu sauce. You’re right, it’s not the same thing, but if you had to chose an option for someone who’s not living near a Mitsuwa, what would you suggest? I’m all for a healthy discussion of opinions here, but please check your facts before posting things as an absolute truth.

      • Cyrano

        I lived in Japan for two years. Loved it. Had to leave in the end though. Too many gaijin.

  • onepaperkid

    After I wrote my comment, I realized the article was almost four years old and the comments three to four years old. LOL

    • Cyrano

      Yes indeed. LOL. That is really funny.

  • kirstine

    marc, can we also make it with chicken breast or thigh ?

    • http://norecipes.com Marc Matsumoto

      Yep absolutely! If you do it with chicken breast I’d brine it first, and be careful not to over cook it or it will end up dry.

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