Chashu is a dish made of fattier cuts of pork that are braised over low heat for a very long time. The low, slow cooking, renders out the fat while turning the tough collagen in the meat into gelatin which keeps the meat moist while making it meltingly tender.
If you’re thinking the name sounds an awful lot like the Chinese barbecued pork dish Char Siu, you’d be right, because at some point in the past, they were one and the same. Chashu is often served atop another dish that also originated in China: ramen. Like its noodley brethren, it’s evolved over the past century to the point where it bears little resemblance to the original dish it was based on.
In the hyper competitive world of ramen in Japan, each shop jealously guards its secret Chashu formula. Revealing these secrets is the kind of offense that will have a dozen masked men in black ninja suits at your door to make you “disappear” in the middle of the night.
Such is my addiction to this luscious dish, that I’ve set aside all concerns about personal safety to recreate Santouka Ramen’s famed “toroniku” Chashu, which can best be described as savoury butter with bits of tender pork suspended inside. It literally melts into a pool of flavour on your tongue and easily makes the list of things I’d want to have in my last meal.
The trick is to use pork cheek instead of the usual pork shoulder or belly that most people use for Chashu. If you’ve never tried it before, pork cheek is porcine perfection, taking the best qualities of a tasty cut like shoulder and marbling in a lattice of fat between the pink strands meat. When braised, the pieces of meat are almost imperceptibly suspended in a mesh of fat, that instantly liquefies when it enters your warm mouth.
For the braising liquid, I used a combination of soy sauce and miso. It’s not a particularly orthodox approach to Chashu making, but I’m pretty sure it’s what Santouka does. To bring my version full circle back to its Chinese roots, I’ve also added garlic, ginger, and white pepper which give the meat some character without overwhelming its porky goodness.
I serve this over my home-made tonkotsu ramen, but it’s also great on top of rice, or in fried rice; I’ve even been know to add it to pastas or a Banh Mi or two.
Ingredients
- 2 pork cheeks (or pork belly)
- 3/4 cups water
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 1 tablespoon miso
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 2 tablespoons sake
- 1 inch fresh ginger sliced
- 2 large cloves garlic smashed
- 12 white peppercorns
Steps
- Put all the ingredients in a pot large enough to accommodate the pork in one layer but small enough so the liquid more or less covers the pork. Partially cover with a lid and simmer over medium low heat for one hour, or until a fork easily passes through the meat. Allow the pork to cool in the braising liquid then remove the meat from the liquid. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator (this makes it easier to slice).
- Slice the Chashu hinly against the grain and serve on top of ramen (the heat from the soup should warm it up). This is also great sliced a little thicker and warmed up on top of a bowl of rice with a little of the braising liquid drizzled on top.
Is it problematic that I want a bite of this and it’s not even 9AM yet?
I’ve never seen pork cheek before, just look at that marbling!!! That is simply amazing.
The words ‘fatty’ and ‘pork’ are meant to be together! This look divine Marc!
Another great recipe and post on here…and I agree with Christie @ Fig & Cherry…two perfect words in unison!
Is it problematic that I want a bite of this and it’s not even 9AM yet?
I’ve never seen pork cheek before, just look at that marbling!!! That is simply amazing.
this looks look pork candy…yum!
Amazing—I must try this! This sounds a lot easier that I though it’d be. Thanks for sharing!
That looks amazing. My half-Japanese boyfriend is a sucker for anything ramen or pork, and would love this. Yum!
PS-it reminds me of the movie Tampopo where the man is explaining ramen appreciation– you have to keep your eye on the pork while you eat noodles, etc. So wonderful!
It’s funny you post that now because i was looking for Chashu recipes on the web over the week-end. I have to use that flavorful pig feet broth and i was thinking about making Ramen. Perfect!
I guess i have to go back to Mitsuwa to get some of those super-marbled pork cheeks now.
The words ‘fatty’ and ‘pork’ are meant to be together! This look divine Marc!
Another great recipe and post on here…and I agree with Christie @ Fig & Cherry…two perfect words in unison!
this looks look pork candy…yum!
Amazing—I must try this! This sounds a lot easier that I though it’d be. Thanks for sharing!
I never liked Japanese food before but when my friend invited me to have a japanese lunch here in Manila, everything changed and im now addicted.
nice photos and btw your wordpress theme is awesome, I hope you can tell me who designed it:)
I loooove Santouka, but its all the way on the other side of town so I never get to go (I’m in silverlake). I really want to try doing this, but I have never seen Pork Cheeks anywhere. Most of my meat comes from either Whole Foods or the Farmers Market at the grove. Any idea where I can score some beautifully marbled pork cheeks like that?
That looks amazing. My half-Japanese boyfriend is a sucker for anything ramen or pork, and would love this. Yum!
PS-it reminds me of the movie Tampopo where the man is explaining ramen appreciation– you have to keep your eye on the pork while you eat noodles, etc. So wonderful!
It’s funny you post that now because i was looking for Chashu recipes on the web over the week-end. I have to use that flavorful pig feet broth and i was thinking about making Ramen. Perfect!
I guess i have to go back to Mitsuwa to get some of those super-marbled pork cheeks now.
mmmmm. that looks good. your chopsticks are so pretty, too!
I never liked Japanese food before but when my friend invited me to have a japanese lunch here in Manila, everything changed and im now addicted.
nice photos and btw your wordpress theme is awesome, I hope you can tell me who designed it:)
I loooove Santouka, but its all the way on the other side of town so I never get to go (I’m in silverlake). I really want to try doing this, but I have never seen Pork Cheeks anywhere. Most of my meat comes from either Whole Foods or the Farmers Market at the grove. Any idea where I can score some beautifully marbled pork cheeks like that?
mmmmm. that looks good. your chopsticks are so pretty, too!
I’m not sure where you can score pork cheek in LA, but I get mine here in NY at Mitsuwa. I think you guys have one there too?
Pork cheek is likely my favourite cut from the animal. I enjoy it simply grilled or in hotpot. This looks delicious, Marc 🙂 I wouldn’t expect anything less from you, of course!
I’m rarely turned on by chashu at ramen joints around town… and it didn’t really stand out to me when I had ramen in Tokyo either. Improper fat distribution is usually the cause. Pork cheek! Problem solved.
I am going to try this recipe with pork cheeks when we get back. Now I just need to figure out how to make the soup so white and silky, and I will be set!! Maybe I should get a part time job at Santouka here in Chicago.
I’ve never been less than very impressed with any of Marc’s food, and his Char Sui is among my favorite dishes in the world (I make it more often than I should – can’t help myself). This looks beyond extraordinary however and I’ve got a strong feeling it could be the ne plus ultra of Banh Mi. I will be trying the Chashu this weekend. Thanks Marc – you have brought much joy to my family and friends!
Pork cheek is likely my favourite cut from the animal. I enjoy it simply grilled or in hotpot. This looks delicious, Marc 🙂 I wouldn’t expect anything less from you, of course!
I’m rarely turned on by chashu at ramen joints around town… and it didn’t really stand out to me when I had ramen in Tokyo either. Improper fat distribution is usually the cause. Pork cheek! Problem solved.
Ooh, I’ve never seen raw pork cheeks before, but my idea of pig perfection (up until now at least) is guanciale, which I think is made from the cheeks as well. Will keep an eye out for the raw version because this looks ridiculously good!
I am going to try this recipe with pork cheeks when we get back. Now I just need to figure out how to make the soup so white and silky, and I will be set!! Maybe I should get a part time job at Santouka here in Chicago.
“Well-marbled” is an understatement 😀
I miss our threesome-trips down to Mitsuwa. I can’t even find nori here dammit!
I’ve never been less than very impressed with any of Marc’s food, and his Char Sui is among my favorite dishes in the world (I make it more often than I should – can’t help myself). This looks beyond extraordinary however and I’ve got a strong feeling it could be the ne plus ultra of Banh Mi. I will be trying the Chashu this weekend. Thanks Marc – you have brought much joy to my family and friends!
Ooh, I’ve never seen raw pork cheeks before, but my idea of pig perfection (up until now at least) is guanciale, which I think is made from the cheeks as well. Will keep an eye out for the raw version because this looks ridiculously good!
“Well-marbled” is an understatement 😀
I miss our threesome-trips down to Mitsuwa. I can’t even find nori here dammit!
Western beef sells pork jowl (which is lost in translation since pork cheek in Japan actually means pork jowl. Cheek meat isn’t what’s called toroniku). It’s the cheapest pork at the store, called something like “pork for broth” or something. It’s $1.99 lb. It’s thin and buried among gross looking soup bones of sorts. Though you have to cut a lot of fat out, it’s completely utterly worth it! Everytime I see them, I buy them all.
Western beef sells pork jowl (which is lost in translation since pork cheek in Japan actually means pork jowl. Cheek meat isn’t what’s called toroniku). It’s the cheapest pork at the store, called something like “pork for broth” or something. It’s $1.99 lb. It’s thin and buried among gross looking soup bones of sorts. Though you have to cut a lot of fat out, it’s completely utterly worth it! Everytime I see them, I buy them all.’, ‘0
I love slow cooked fatty meats. They get so delicious and melt in your mouth tender. Love the flavors here.
I love slow cooked fatty meats. They get so delicious and melt in your mouth tender. Love the flavors here.
i really want to get my hands on a pork cheek. Sound divine. I was surprised that you didn’t marinade it.
I dream of chasu that is brined over night in soy sauce and miso and anise of some sort. Change up the techniques.
i really want to get my hands on a pork cheek. Sound divine. I was surprised that you didn’t marinade it.
I dream of chasu that is brined over night in soy sauce and miso and anise of some sort. Change up the techniques.
Huh, I’ve got to look out for pork cheeks. Meat cuts don’t follow names for body parts here (i.e., the word for a person’s shoulder is not the same as a pig’s shoulder). So it may require some searching and asking around. So totally worth it, though. Ramen or rice, I love it all!
Huh, I’ve got to look out for pork cheeks. Meat cuts don’t follow names for body parts here (i.e., the word for a person’s shoulder is not the same as a pig’s shoulder). So it may require some searching and asking around. So totally worth it, though. Ramen or rice, I love it all!
Marc, here in the Caribbean while we can get most parts of pig, sometimes the names are not the same… is it literally the cheeks of the pig?
Marc, here in the Caribbean while we can get most parts of pig, sometimes the names are not the same… is it literally the cheeks of the pig?
Well, since I see you’ve posted something since this post, we don’t need to send out a search party for your body yet. But those ninjas are known to be sneaky and wait until you’re unsuspecting, so watch your back! All joking aside, this looks so good I could lick my computer screen. It has been forever since I’ve made chashu–I think it’s time to make some again.
Well, since I see you’ve posted something since this post, we don’t need to send out a search party for your body yet. But those ninjas are known to be sneaky and wait until you’re unsuspecting, so watch your back! All joking aside, this looks so good I could lick my computer screen. It has been forever since I’ve made chashu–I think it’s time to make some again.
Oh, Mitsuwa- is there anything you can’t do?
I get cheeks from our local butcher, but they are not marbled like that. New Jersey, here I come.
Oh, Mitsuwa- is there anything you can’t do?
I get cheeks from our local butcher, but they are not marbled like that. New Jersey, here I come.
omg the meat looks AMAZING! I’m bookmarking this. Hope I can get some cheeks!