My mom's lasagne and spaghetti aside, my first memories of "Italian" food were at the Depot restaurant in Napa. Opened in 1925 by Teresa Tamburelli, the Depot was a Napa Valley institution for generations until it closed in 2004. For me, the appeal was always more about the vintage atmosphere than for the food, but there was one exception: the Depot's Malfatti in a rich veal sugo.
On weekends and around the holidays, it wasn't unusual to see Napans lined up outside the kitchen door with pots and pans from home to pick up an order of the classic to go. While many who grew up on the Depot's Malfatti believed it was created by Tamburelli in the 1930's, it's actually a dish that has roots in Italy. Malfatti literally means "poorly made" in Italian, and while the shape may be irregular, the there's nothing poor about the taste.
Rich, tender and savory, Malfatti is like a more flavorful gnocchi with rustic charm.
What sets it apart is not just the shape (or lack of it), but the inclusion of a large quantity of leafy greens in the dough, giving the dumplings an emerald green color and verdant flavor. The Malfatti at the Depot used stale bread as its base, but I actually prefer using a combination of fresh ricotta with flour and semolina, because it creates a more flavorful dumpling that holds up better in sauce.
Like gnocchi, the key to making a tender Malfatti is to use as little flour as possible to make the dough. Flour not only makes the Malfatti dense and heavy, it also makes them chewy. That's why It's important to squeeze as much water out of the spinach as you can and to use ricotta that's been thoroughly drained. Otherwise your dough will end up too soft and you'll need to add more flour to help them hold their shape.
This makes about sixty Malfatti, so for the first day, I served these with browned butter, crispy sage leaves, Meyer lemon zest, and plenty of Parmigiano Reggiano. The combo strikes a terrific balance between the green flavors of the spinach and sage, the richness of the cheese, the nuttiness of the browned butter, and the bright zing of lemon. While the dumplings are indeed malformed, they make for an attractive hot mess that tastes even better than they look.
As long as you coat the outside of the dumplings with enough semolina and keep them covered, they'll keep in the fridge for up to two days, so the next day I went with a more familiar pot of sugo for the rest of the Malfatti, which certainly does bring back memories.
📖 Recipe
Units
Ingredients
for malfatti
- 620 grams spinach
- 320 grams ricotta cheese (~1 ⅓ cup)
- 60 grams Parmigiano-Reggiano
- 65 grams all-purpose flour (~½ cup)
- 50 grams semolina flour (~ ½ cup)
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
to serve
- 5 tablespoons cultured unsalted butter
- 40 sage leaves
- Parmigiano-Reggiano
- Meyer lemon zest
Instructions
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil and boil the spinach until tender (but still vibrant green), about 1 ½ minutes. Drain and plunge into ice water to stop the cooking and set the color. Squeeze as much water as you can out of the spinach using your hands. I ended up with 240 grams of cooked spinach after squeezing and the ball of spinach fit comfortably in my hand. Finely chop the spinach with a knife, or stick it in a food processor to mince it for you.
- Add the spinach to a bowl along with the ricotta, parmigiano reggiano, all-purpose flour, semolina, salt, and nutmeg and mix until thoroughly combined. Depending on how moist your ricotta was, you may need to add some extra semolina. The dough will be very soft, but should be firm enough to hold a spatula inserted into the center vertically.
- Sprinkle an even layer of semolina onto a work surface and drop a manageable piece of dough onto the surface. Roll the dough into a rope about ½-inch thick and then use a pastry knife to cut the rope into 2-inch long pieces.
- The ends will likely get squished so roll each piece between your hands to form little cylinders, using semolina to keep them from sticking to your hands. Place the finished malfatti on a non-stick sheet pan. You can store these covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
- When you're ready to serve the malfatti, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
- Place the butter and sage leaves in a large frying pan and then place over medium-low heat. If you don't have a pan that's large enough to hold the malfatti comfortably in a single layer, you may need to use 2 pans.
- Add the malfatti to the boiling water and cook until they float to the surface (about 2-3 minutes). Drain and then toss with the browned butter adding salt and pepper to taste.
- Plate the malfatti, and garnish with a generous sprinkle of grated parmigiano reggiano and some meyer lemon zest.
Theresa says
Hi Marc...
Yes, I too lived in Napa, CA where the Depot Hotel had the best food...I consider in the world! I'm wondering about the original recipe you mentioned; the 'day old bread' that was used...do you have the measurements? And how is it prepared to go into this Malfatti recipe?
To give you the answer of what meat they put in their sauce for Malfatti...yes, it was veal. The memories I have when an order was ready, the sound of Clemente yelling, "Pick up Pat!"...he was so much fun! the hugs he gave me everytime I went there were the best. To go to the restaurant & sit down was a fantastic visit into the time the train depot was in use for the trains...the walaper, the view of the train tracks...just so wonderful. But to visit the kitchen in the back bringing my pots, pans & containers to get Malfatti, Minestrone Soup, and French Bread were so special. I felt like I was a part of the family...and they all made me feel like I was family.
If you do have any idea of how much 'day old french bread' and how to prepare it, I'd surely be thankful to you.
I leave your readers with this last moment of the "Original" Depot Hotel in Napa...during the winter, it would be too cold to keep windows or doors open. The steam from the kitchen would fill the air, and the windows would be steamy...the smell of Little Italy, the smell of the best food on this earth...that is The Depot Hotel in Napa...original. I miss them all.
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Theresa, thank you for taking the time to share! It brings back so many memories, especially of the steamy windows. Unfortunately I don't know what the ratios are for the bread, but as for prep, you'd want to turn them into breadcrumbs first.
Theresa says
Hi again, Marc:
Thank you so much for getting back to me about the potential breadcrumb measurement. I would assume that it might be best to add half and half just to be sure for the first time I try to make it with bread crumbs. Since bread crumbs can be made into flour somewhat, I think that's what I might do. And I will let you know once I make the recipe that way.
Yes the wonderful memories at the Depot hotel in Napa we're just wonderful. I sure wish they were still there, but the memories will never leave me. Take care, and Happy🦃🎄☃️Holidays!🙂
Marc Matsumoto says
You're welcome Theresa! Looking forward to hearing how it goes. Happy Holidays!
Sandy Wright says
Marc - my husband and I grew up in Napa and yes it has to be my favorite dish in Napa other than the Artichoke Torta at Genoa Deli! Have you been able to crack the recipe for their sauce? Thanks for sharing - take care!
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks for stopping by Sandy! I first posted this recipe a decade ago, and it's been so long since I've had the original (I live in Japan now), I honestly don't remember what the sauce tasted like. I think I remember it being made with a veal ragout, and it had a lot of Parmesan flavor that I think may have come from cooking Parmigiano Reggiano rinds in the sauce.
Poetry Jones says
What’s with the measurements in this recipe? After decoding, I made these - texture and flavor all wrong.
Big disappointment, sorry.
K Stroup says
I'm sorry, but what problem did you have with the measurements? The recipe states weight measurements in grams, which is the most accurate way to measure ingredients. This recipe is older and doesn't offer weight in ounces, sorry if that was confusing. Sorry you didn't like your results, but maybe you could try again and measure by weight? Marc may be able to convert the weights into ounces for you, if you think that would help. I made this and it came out perfectly, which means I failed if you consider that the name "malfatti" means "poorly made"😅
Jennifer says
Hey Marc, I'm having some trouble finding cultured unsalted butter: do you think using (regular) unsalted butter will be fine? Thanks!
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Jennifer, cultured butter is sometimes sold as "European butter" in the US. The difference is that the cream is fermented first (like yogurt), which gives it a more buttery flavor. Regular "sweet" butter will work fine, it just won't taste as buttery.
Jennifer says
Hi Marc, I'd love to taste these malfatti. I've got all the ingredients but the meyer lemon: I'm afraid I can't find it where I am. I understand lemon enhances the flavor of the dish: do you think I can substitute it with regular lemon? Thanks 🙂
Marc Matsumoto says
Meyer lemon has a slightly sweeter fragrance than regular lemons, but regular lemon zest will work fine. I hope you enjoy it😀
Jennifer says
Thanks a lot, Marc! ☺️
Jackie says
Are you able to freeze these?
Thanks!
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Jackie, I've never tried freezing them, but I think it should work. Just line them up in a single layer on a well-floured sheet pan (so they don't stick together) and freeze them. Then you can put the frozen malfati in a freezer bag to store them.
Patricia Shiffer says
I frozen them in the sauce and they were good. Let me know if you have figured out the sauce they use in Napa. I live in Nevada now so can’t get to Napa easily any more. Thanks.
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Patricia, I'm glad to hear you enjoyed this. I haven't done much experimenting lately, but there was one time I made this that I also happend to have some leftover Osso Buco (https://norecipes.com/osso-buco/). I removed the meat from the bones, and used a stick blender to partially blend the meat in with the remaining sauce (and added some extra passata). Was delicious with a bunch of freshly grated parm-reg mixed in.
Noelle says
Marc,
Out of curiosity, I'm assuming you have tried both Clemente's and Lawler's malfatti. ..from your point of view which is more authentic in flavor in regard to the malfatti AND the sauce?
I have tried malfattis/gnocchi at a handful of Italian restaurants and am thinking because I frequented The Depot when I was much younger, maybe I'm partial to them. I appreciate your culinary experience and your comments are on point...very enjoyable!
Look forward to hearing your opinion,
Noelle C.
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Noelle, to be honest, I haven't tried Clemente's or Lawler's and it's been years since I've had it at The Depot. I made this based on my taste memory, so I can't guarantee it will be exactly the same. I think Depot made their sauce with veal, and I'm pretty sure it was one of those sauces that just keeps getting added to every day, so I haven't been able to create a sauce that's exactly the same.
Stephanie says
Clemente’s are the best! Hands down. Just had them on Saturday!
Megan says
Thank you for the recipe! I have family that still lives in Napa and I have fond memories of enjoying Malfattis!
How long should you cook the sage leaves? And then you discard them? It’s only to flavor the butter?
And how many people would you say this recipe would feed?
Thank you, I’m so excited to try this recipe!
Marc Matsumoto says
You're welcome Megan! The sage leaves stay in the butter, they end up getting crisp by the time the butter has browned and make a nice garnish. As for the number of servings, it depends on how you are using them. If it's a side/appetizer, this should be enough for 4-6 people. If you're only serving this, it'll feed more like 2-3.
Monique Duval says
Lawler's liquor on Jefferson also makes an amazing malfotti.
Jennifer Elsasser says
Same family 😉
Mary Stornetta says
Hi Marc,
We left Napa two years ago and not only miss family and friends, but Clemente's malfattis! Thank you for the walk down memory lane, but the recipe too!
Angie Tolle says
I'm sure your family had the dairy I toured when I was in elementary school at BelAire. =) Every time I go to Napa to visit I have to have some malfatti from Val's.
Jennifer Elsasser says
I've been searching for Malfatti like Napa! Thank you.
KCB says
Just visited Val's last week for a few dozen Malfatti and Ravioli and was happy to see Clemintine!. I would love to have the sauce recipe. Please share when you've got it perfected.
Frank Purcell says
When i was a. Preteen my folks used to take me to depot iin napa. Was my favorite place, minestroni soup and malfattis
Christy says
Hi Marc - I’m Napa born and raised and was searching for Clemente’s malfatti recipe (after The Depot shut down, he started serving the recipes out of a kitchen window at Val’s Liquor, which is still happening). I’m so happy to have found this one! I’ll be testing it out soon. But next stop is to find a recipe to match their rich tomato sauce (you said with veal)—my dad says that seems accurate, but he thought it was veal from pan drippings and that they do cook a lot of veal there. I didn’t see a recipe for it on your page—did I miss it? If not, I’d love to be pointed to the next best thing. Thanks for a taste of home 😊 We live in WA now. Christy
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Christy, I don't have the sauce recipe but now that I know that the same folks sell it out of Val's I'll have to go back and try it again to see if I can figure out the sauce. In the meantime, here's my Bolognese recipe: https://norecipes.com/ragu-alla-bolognese/ Not quite the same, but it's still pretty darned good, if you end up making it, you may want to add more canned tomatoes to this to make it more saucy.
Christy says
Thanks Marc! My Dad and I were thinking it was more like a rich meaty tomato gravy than a bolognese—but yes—the closest next best thing. Sounds like you grew up in Napa too. We also used to pair the sauce with the artichoke torta from Genova’s Deli—with the rivalry there it feels like a crime, but it was sooo good. Best of luck puzzling out the sauce! My parents still live in Browns Valley. Hope yours were safe in the fires. Christy
Marc Matsumoto says
That's kind of how I remember it. The meat that was in there was cooked so long it was all kind of falling apart into the sauce. Always good to hear from a fellow Napan! I live in Tokyo now, but my parents are still there, just over the hill from Browns Valley. My sister had a close call at her place in Santa Rosa, but parents and sister made it through fine. Hope your family's home made it through okay?
Christy says
Yes - they were overseas at the time (left that morning which was probably for the best because the smoke would have really irritated my mom's lungs). Browns Valley was spared--seems like some locals went out in dozers and cut a fire line--likely saving the neighborhood (or at least a portion of it). So glad your sister was ok! So many in Santa Rosa were not so fortunate. My brother (who lives in Sac) went to my parents house to rescue valuables just in case--the fire got close a few times. So glad you and yours were safe! The stories that come out of these fires are just unreal. Thanks for making fantastic food! I ended up making a bolognese that I found online that had a "stickley" method of allowing contents to repeatedly caramelize on the bottom of the pot before scraping--cooking and scraping for a minimum of 6 hours - the flavors from this method were very similar to The Depot sauce.
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks Christy, I'm glad to hear your family was okay!
Stacie Jimenez-Christian says
I’m from Napa too, NHS 87’. So happy to find this Malfatti recipe. I live in Dallas now and I’m always looking for home ... I just did Buttercream‘S Champagne Cake.
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Stacie, glad I could bring back memories! I'm NHS '95 and living in Tokyo now so I guess we're both a long way from home😆
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Adele, sorry to hear you had some problems with this. when you say they fell apart do you mean you couldn't shape them in the first place, or that they disintegrated when you boiled them? It's hard to say for sure without knowing a bit more about what happened, but if I had to guess I'd say that there was probably too much water in your dough. This could be from ricotta that was too wet, or spinach that was not squeezed enough (it needs to be squeezed until you can't get any more water to drip out of it).
Adele Martin says
I made the malfattie and the fell apart my grandmother used to make them out of the left over ravioli filling she had no problem help
Yana says
Marc, thank you kindly for responding! !!!! I am going to give it a try 🙂 Thank you again!!! cheers 🙂
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks Yana, I'm glad to hear you've been enjoying my dishes. I've never done this with gluten free flour, so I honestly don't know, but I think it should work. The flour is added for two reasons, to make the dough more workable (otherwise it's too soft) and to bind it, so something like rice flour with a lot of starch(as opposed to a nut flour or legume flour) might work best.
Yana says
Hi Marc! Thank you for all of your amazing recipes.
I’ve tried a quite few and they always turned out well. I am really dying to
make these Malfattis…can I add any GF flour instead of semolina+four? Thank you! Yana