
You know it's fall when Matsutake mushrooms hit the market in Japan. Their earthy, woodsy aroma is so unique it feels like walking through a pine forest after the rain. One of my favorite matsutake recipes is this Japanese risotto that swaps sake for white wine and dashi for vegetable stock.
Autumn is rice harvest season in Japan, and it's tradition to cook freshly harvested rice with seasonal ingredients. Matsutake rice is a classic, but this modern take pairs the sweet, nutty flavor of new rice with the deep, foresty aroma of the mushrooms, bringing out the best in both. It's warm, savory, and deeply comforting. Here's why this recipe works so well.
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Why My Recipe Works

- Dashi and Wine - I like to use kombu dashi and sake as the base for this risotto. Both are rich in umami-producing glutamates, which, along with the cheese, deepen the flavor of the mushrooms without overpowering them.
- Separate the Mushrooms - Matsutake caps and stems have distinctly different textures. The stems are firmer and more fibrous, while the caps are tender and delicate. I like to chop and brown the stems before cooking them with the rice, and save the caps to sauté separately and serve on top.
- Buttered Panko Topping - Toasted panko adds a crisp, buttery contrast to the creamy risotto and brings a lovely nutty aroma that ties everything together.
Ingredients
- Matsutake Mushrooms - Unlike most mushrooms, matsutake aren't cultivated, so they're typically only available during a short window each autumn. While best known in Japan, they also grow in mountainous regions across Asia, Europe, and North America, so look for them in your local high-end supermarket. They may also be labeled "pine mushrooms". If you can't find them, other aromatic mushrooms like shiitake or porcini make great substitutes.
- Rice - Both Arborio and Carnaroli are cultivars of Japonica rice, so Japanese short-grain rice works beautifully in risotto. It holds a firm, chewy texture and doesn't break down into mush. Any short- or medium-grain rice with a high amylopectin content will work well here.
- Kombu Dashi - Made by steeping dried kelp in cold water, kombu dashi adds loads of umami without overwhelming the mushrooms. You can also use powdered dashi or substitute a mild vegetable or mushroom stock.
- Shallots - Their gentle sweetness pairs well with the earthy mushrooms, adding depth without overpowering.
- Sake - Sake is brewed from rice, and during fermentation, enzymes break down the rice's proteins into umami-rich amino acids. Deglazing the pan with sake boosts the savory depth of this fall risotto.
- Parmigiano Reggiano - Cheese is also rich in amino acids, and the nutty flavor of Parmigiano Reggiano complements the mushrooms beautifully.
- Panko - I like toasting Japanese panko breadcrumbs with butter to use as a crispy topping for this risotto.

How to Make Matsutake Mushroom Risotto
Preparation
- Start by warming your kombu dashi with salt. 💡TIP: Keep the dashi hot but not boiling. This prevents the temperature of the rice from dropping suddenly as you add it.
- Separate the matsutake caps from the stems. Chop the stems and slice the caps into ~⅛" (3 mm) thick pieces. You'll later sauté those caps separately to preserve their fragrance and texture.
Make the Mushroom Risotto
- Melt 1 tablespoon of butter along with 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. Add the minced shallots and chopped matsutake stems. Sauté until the butter becomes lightly browned and the mushrooms take on a golden hue. 🧪SCIENCE: The Maillard reaction between amino acids and sugars at this step builds deep aromatic compounds you'll taste later.
- Add the rice to the pan, stirring so each grain becomes coated in the fat mixture. After about a minute, pour in the ¼ cup sake and stir until it's fully absorbed. This adds subtle sweetness and umami to the rice while dissolving any flavors that have stuck to the pan.
- Now comes the classic risotto rhythm: add two ladles of dashi and stir until it's almost fully absorbed. Then continue adding the dashi one ladle at a time, stirring in between each addition. Keep going until the rice is just short of al dente - this generally takes about 3½ cups of dashi. Taste often and stop when the rice is creamy but firm. 💡TIP: Stirring releases starch gradually and gives you that luscious creamy texture, so take your time, and don't stop stirring.
Brown the Matsutake Caps & Toast Panko
- While the rice cooks, heat a second pan with the remaining olive oil. Sear the sliced matsutake caps until they develop golden edges; season lightly with salt and set aside.
- In that same pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter and use it to toast the panko breadcrumbs, stirring constantly, until golden brown and crisp. Set aside for topping.
Finish the Risotto
- Once the rice is at your desired doneness, stir in the cheese and remaining butter and emulsify the mixture. Taste and adjust salt only if needed.
- Scoop your autumn risotto into warmed bowls. Top each serving with those sautéed matsutake caps and the browned‑buttered panko crumbs.
What I Serve This With
To stick with the fall vibe, I like to build a meal around earthy flavors and seasonal ingredients. A warm, creamy bowl of kabocha squash soup is a cozy way to start. For contrast, a salad of crisp greens and sliced persimmons dressed with my Japanese sesame dressing adds a refreshing, nutty brightness.
If I'm turning it into a heartier meal, slow-braised kakuni pork belly is a rich and unctuous protein to serve alongside your Japanese risotto. Want something more luxurious? Sear an A5 wagyu steak and serve it with Japanese steak sauce for a bold, beefy protein. And for a make-ahead side that fits the season, my Japanese marinated mushrooms add a tangy, savory contrast to balance the richness of the rest of the meal.
📖 Recipe

Equipment
Units
Ingredients
- 4 cups dashi
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 170 grams matsutake mushrooms (thoroughly cleaned)
- 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon shallots (minced)
- 140 grams Japanese short grain rice (carnaroli or arborio will work too)
- ¼ cup sake
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons panko
- 14 grams parmigiano reggiano (grated)
- 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter
Instructions
- Add 4 cups dashi and ½ teaspoon salt to a saucepan and heat until steam begins to rise from the surface.
- Separate 170 grams matsutake mushrooms, stems from the caps. Chop the stems and slice the caps into ⅛" thick pieces

- Heat a nonstick frying pan with 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil until hot. Add 1 tablespoon shallots and chopped matsutake stems. Cook until the butter browns slightly and the mushrooms take on a light golden color.

- Add 140 grams Japanese short grain rice and stir for about a minute, coating each grain with the butter and oil.

- Pour in ¼ cup sake and stir until it has evaporated. Add two ladles of dashi, stirring constantly until most of the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding dashi one ladle at a time, stirring constantly, until the rice reaches your preferred doneness (about 3 ½ cups of dashi for an al dente risotto).
- While the risotto cooks, heat a second pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Fry the matsutake caps until browned, then season lightly with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate.
- Add 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter to the same pan, then add 2 tablespoons panko. Toast, stirring constantly, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

- When the risotto is done, stir in 14 grams parmigiano reggiano and 1 tablespoon cultured unsalted butter until incorporated. Taste and adjust with salt if needed. Plate the risotto and top with the sautéed matsutake caps and toasted breadcrumbs.







Monica says
When I'm blessed with matsutakes, this is the recipe I use for my precious mushrooms. Using dashi and sake is the perfect combination for this earthy and comforting dish.
Marc Matsumoto says
Hi Monica, I'm happy to hear you've been enjoying this recipe. Thank you for taking the time to share!
Carina Fjällborg says
Delicious! I use a mild oil instead of olive oil.
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks Carina, I'm happy to hear you enjoyed this!
Rose says
Thanks for the idea's Marc! I'll try them.. the matsutake carbonara sounds especially good since I'm on an Italian kick these days!
Carina Fjällborg says
I am lucky to find matsutake in the pine forest where I live in northern Sweden, so I pick my own matsutake.
This is my favourite recipe. I also make ramen soup with matsutake.
One important thing about matsutake (and some other mushrooms as well) is that you have to cook it for at least 20 minutes as it is hard to digest. I cook them in butter until they are crispy on low heat. I use a milder oil instead of olive oil and if I don't have sake I use a balsamic white vinegar (half the amount) or white wine.
Marc Matsumoto says
Because they're such a rare treat over here, I usually like to prepare them pretty simply. Matsutake Gohan is probably my favorite https://norecipes.com/recipe/matsutake-gohan/ followed closely by Dobin Mushi (literally: steamed in teapot). This is made by adding konbu dashi, shrimp or chicken, and some veggies to a teapot with matsutake and steaming the whole thing, with a squeeze of sudachi at the end. Makes a marvelous broth and then you can eat the stuff in the teapot after you're done with the broth. Oh, and lately I've been doing a matsutake carbonara based on this recipe: https://norecipes.com/recipe/spaghetti-carbonara-recipe/ but with fresh baby anchovies instead of pancetta and with matsutakes sautéed in butter.
Rose says
Wow $100 per mushroom is steep! I'm guessing the veil has to still be attached at that price? We found about 10 lbs 2 days ago and most of them with the veil still covering the gills. Not bad for just an hour of hunting. I know that I could get tons more but then I'd have to figure out what to do with them all.. I'm going to make your risotto tonight.. But I'm curious as to what your favorite recipe is for matsutakes?
Marc Matsumoto says
Wow, I'm jealous! Matsutakes in Japan cost about $100 per mushroom, so I have to use them sparingly (or buy imports from the US, which still run about $30 per shroom).
Rose says
I love this recipe! I live out in the country side in S.Oregon and a few years ago stumbled upon Matsutake's while mushroom hunting in the hill's across the street from our house.. found almost too many to eat! Note I said "almost". Matsu's deep fried in tempura is my favorite, however this recipe comes in a close second. Thanks.
injection mold says
I was just in San Jose's Japantown and (don't swoon, Marc) one of my favorite markets had about twenty packages of these mushrooms for $19.99 a pound. I'll definitely try your luscious dish within the next day or two. Thanks for all of the deliciousness!
injection mold says
This is truly beautiful and so delicate. I would love to taste how lavender and matcha go together! Will be voting for you Marc
Marc Matsumoto says
I used to live in SJ's J-town, brings back old memories:-)
Streetwalker101 says
Hi Marc,
I was just in San Jose's Japantown and (don't swoon, Marc) one of my favorite markets had about twenty packages of these mushrooms for $19.99 a pound. I'll definitely try your luscious dish within the next day or two. Thanks for all of the deliciousness!
Marilia says
What a great idea to sub in dashi and sake for a Japanese-style risotto! You've inspired me to make one too, although I probably won't be using matsutake since you bought them all! Maybe just a mix of some shimeji and shitake...
Elpi says
I really like your photos, so real. I almost touch your recipe lol I am hungry
Marc Matsumoto says
Nice, I'll have to go check that place out. $12.99/lbs is a steal!
What beer did you pair with it? I was thinking the blonde might go
nicely.
Marilia says
Marc,
I bought some beautiful Matsutake at Monterey Market in Berkeley this weekend ($12.99 lb!). My daughter came by and made risotto with them. Next time you're in the Bay Area you'll have to check them out - they almost always have 20+ varieties of mushrooms at any time and their high turnover means high quality and low prices.
Maria says
That risotto sounds divine and your photos are absolutely gorgeous.
Marilia says
I knew I shouldn't have hesitated when I saw them at our Farmers' Market and was told to use them in soups! This is what holds me back from trying new mushrooms - not knowing their flavors or best way to prepare them - gotta start bookmarking recipes like yours.
Marc Matsumoto says
Thanks Rich, they can be tough to find, but they usually show up
during the month of October in upscale groceries as well as Japanese
grocery stores.
Lefty says
I have never tried matsutake mushrooms before, and to be honest, I don't think I've ever seen one in the stores - but rest assured, my eyes will be peeled now. That risotto looks delicious!
Lick My Spoon says
*swoon* love the japanese take on this -- use of dashi and sake -- brilliant. glad you struck gold at bi-rite!
Marc Matsumoto says
They were sourced from Washington state (at least that's what the sign said).
the indolent cook says
Yummy! As a side note, those matsutake mushrooms are probably from China, hence the cheap price. Probably only matsutake experts can identify the difference anyway. Would love to bump into some real matustake at my local store, regardless of origin!
bigfatcook says
Hey!! Your risotto looks really nice!! :)) I like everything with mushrooms:)
Greets from BFC!!!
colloquial cook says
Wow! [faint]
Wonderful Marc! You make me crave risotto (or is it the incessant drizzling outside? Who cares!)
Are those your mom's leaves?
spinachtiger says
I love what I call fusion dishes. Would be good with a dash of nori sea salt too. I so wanted to go to Delfina Pizza but never made it there.
Karen says
OOO Lucky you!! Looks DELICIOUS!
Marilia says
Marc, I love how you stayed to true to the culinary mastery of risotto, yet gave it an Asian twist. A marriage of one culture's technique and another's flavors. Job well done, now when can I come over for dinner?
Stephanie says
I have to say, aside from the sexy-as-hell-looking mushrooms, I love your approach to photography. Elegant simplicity at its highest. Wonderful.
Nancy~The Wife of a Dairyman says
What a great find! Your dish looks like it would taste fantastic and of course I just love your photography:)
LimeCake says
What a steal! I sheepishly admit I would've grabbed these in a heartbeat had I seen them like you had! This risotto is definitely a fine way to appreciate your bounty.
Marc Matsumoto says
It's less about the texture and more about the flavor. Cultured butter
is produced with fermented cream, so it has different flavor compounds
that adds a wonderful creamy flavor. When cultured butter is browned
it gives it a nutty savory taste that I love.
Gina (Gluten-free Gourmand) says
Risotto is one of my favorite dishes. I've never cooked with matsutake mushrooms before - perhaps this recipe will inspire me!
Marc, do you find that cultured butter gives you a smoother texture in your risotto? I've always used regular butter, but using cultured butter makes sense.